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上裝適體性研究

上裝適體性研究

定 價(jià):¥30.00

作 者: 劉馳 著
出版社: 西安交通大學(xué)出版社
叢編項(xiàng):
標(biāo) 簽: 暫缺

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ISBN: 9787560525884 出版時(shí)間: 2007-10-01 包裝: 平裝
開本: 16開 頁數(shù): 208 字?jǐn)?shù):  

內(nèi)容簡(jiǎn)介

  《上裝適體性研究》是作者在英國曼徹斯特大學(xué)攻讀博士學(xué)位期間研究工作的結(jié)晶,亦是作者多年在服裝工程領(lǐng)域教學(xué)與研究的經(jīng)驗(yàn)總結(jié)。主要研究服裝結(jié)構(gòu)對(duì)于服裝適體性和運(yùn)動(dòng)功能性的影響,并從結(jié)構(gòu)上解決或弱化造型與運(yùn)動(dòng)功能性的矛盾?!渡涎b適體性研究》由七章組成。第一章介紹研究背景和目的。第二章研究三維人體掃描方法在人體非標(biāo)準(zhǔn)姿勢(shì)測(cè)量中的應(yīng)用。第三章通過石膏法的應(yīng)用,獲得不同姿勢(shì)的人體原型,并精確測(cè)量人體尺寸。第四章以石膏法中所獲得的不同姿勢(shì)的原型為基礎(chǔ),利用服裝軟件“COAT4.1”設(shè)計(jì)不同的放松量進(jìn)行紙樣制作,從而制作出實(shí)際的服裝。第五章設(shè)計(jì)并應(yīng)用壓力傳感器,測(cè)量當(dāng)人體處于不同姿勢(shì)時(shí)服裝與人體之間的壓力。第六章通過不同姿勢(shì)的人體尺寸調(diào)查,對(duì)適體成衣中的放松量效果進(jìn)行評(píng)價(jià)。第七章對(duì)全書進(jìn)行總結(jié)。

作者簡(jiǎn)介

暫缺《上裝適體性研究》作者簡(jiǎn)介

圖書目錄

1.Introduction
1.1 Garment-Making Systems
1.1.1 HauteCouture
1.1.2 BlockPatterns
1.1.3 PatternDrafting
1.2 BackgroundtotheResearch
1.3 ProposedSolution
1.4 AimsandObjectives
2.LiteratureReview
2.1 AStudyoftheShoulderGirdle
2.1.1 DescriptionoftheShoulderGirdle
2.1.2 TheFunctionoftheHumanBodyandtheClothingShoulderGirdle
2.2 AnthropometricalStudyforClothingApplication
2.2.1 SizingSystem-AnthropometricalStudy
2.2.2 DevelopmentinAnthropometricMethods
2.3 MovementFunctioninClothingComfortandFit
2.3.1 HumanBodyMovement
2.3.2 DescribingBodyMovement
2.3.3 ApplyingDataonBodyMovementtoClothingDesign
2.3.4 ClothingComfortandFit
2.4 SystemofPatternConstruction
2.4.1 Modelling
2.4.2 DraftingSystem
2.4.3 BlockPatternConstruction
2.5 TheFittingProcessandEaseDesign
2.5.1 GeneralBackgroundofFitting
2.5.2 TypesofFit
2.5.3 TheAmountofEase
3.Comparisonof3DBodyScanningwithManualMeasurementofDynamicPostures
3.1 Introduction
3.2 Methodology
3.3 TheManualMeasurementMethod
3.3.1 ManualMeasurementResults
3.3.2 AnalysisofExperimentalResultsofManualMeasurement
3.4 Three-DimensionalBodyScanningMeasurementMethod
3.4.1 HighlightLandmarksontheBody
3.4.2 Three-DimensionalBodyScanningMeasurementResult
3.4.3 AnalysisofExperimentalResultsof3DMeasurement
3.5 ComparisonBetweentheResultof3DBodyScanningandManualMeasurementofDynamicPostures
3.6 AnalysisofMeasurementErrors
3.7 Summary
4.DesignClothingbythePlasterMethod
4.1 GeneralBackground
4.2 ExperimentalWork
4.2.1 PreparingtheExperiment
4.2.2 ExperimentProcess
4.2.3 ExperimentalResult
4.3 ThePlasterCastPattern
4.3.1 ThePatternfortheNaturalPosition
4.3.2 ComparedthePlasterPatternsofTheseThreePostures
4.4 CreationofCADPatternsDerivedfromthePlasterCast
4.4.1 AboutCOAT4.1
4.4.2 CreationofCOATPatternfromPlasterCast
4.5 PracticalGarmentDesign
4.5.1 PatternDesignforLimitedMovement-BasedontheNaturalPosition
4.5.2 PatternDesignforLooseFitBlouse-BasedonLiftl80PlasterCast
4.5.3 PatternDesignforaSemi-FittedBlouse-BasedonH180PlasterCast
4.5.4 ComparingPatternMeasurementsforDifferentLevelsofFit
4.6 TheFabricChoice
4.6.1 KESResultsandAnalysis
4.6.2 MaterialAnalysisoftheChosenFabric
4.7 TheFinishedRealClothes
5.TransducerApplicationintheResearch
5.1 ConstructionandOperationalPrinciplesofthePressureTransducer
5.2 TransducerDesign
5.2.1 TheFirstSensor
5.2.2 TheSecondSensor
5.2.3 TheThirdSensor
5.2.4 TheFourthSensor
5.3 TheOtherEquipmentRequiredintheExperiment
5.4 TransducerCalibration
5.5 ChoosingMeasurementPointsontheBody
5.6 ExperimentProcedure
5.6.1 ResultsforClothesBasedontheNaturalBlock
5.6.2 ResultsforClothesBasedontheL180Block
5.6.3 ResultsforClothesBasedontheH180Block
5.7 AnalysisandConclusionsfromGarmentPressureMeasurements
6.SizeSurvey
6.1 PurposeofSurvey
6.2 SubjectSource
6.3 SettingMeasurementItems
6.4 AnalysisBasicMeasurementsoftheSurvey
6.5 AnalysisParticularMeasurementsoftheSurvey
6.5.1 GirthChangeforDifferentPostures
6.5.2 LengthDifferencesinDifferentPostures
6.6 ClothingSizeSurveyforFittingTest
6.6.1 FurtherAnalysisoftheSubjectswithSmallSize
6.6.2 SampleSource
6.6.3 MeasuringtheClothes
6.6.4 AnalysisofEaseinDifferentPartsforDifferentPostures
6.7 ComparetheResultsfromPlasterMethodwiththatfromSizeSurvey
6.8 OptimisingStyleandDynamicComfortfromSleeveConstruction
6.8.1 AddingEasetotheBacktoImproveDynamicComfort
6.8.2 AddingAppropriateBackandSleeveWidthforComfort
6.8.3 ConcealingthePleat
6.8.4 ManipulatingStyle,ProportionandConstructiontoProvideEase
6.8.5 TheHemSolutionWhentheArmsAreRaised
6.8.6 SettingtheFront-BackPartitionImproveDynamicFreedom
6.8.7 DetachableGarmentSegmentsHelptoDetermineBodyExpansion
6.9 Summary
7.ConclusionsandRecommendationsforFurtherWork
References
Appendix1
Appendix2
Appendix3
Appendix4
Appendix5
Acknowledgement

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